Start with 2–3 parts browns to 1 part greens by volume
Keep the mixture about as damp as a wrung-out sponge and leave room for air. The ratio is a practical starting point, not a laboratory measurement.
What composting does
Home composting is managed, aerobic decomposition. Microorganisms break down organic material when they have carbon-rich browns, nitrogen-rich greens, enough moisture, and oxygen.
Browns: carbon-rich
Browns supply carbon while coarse pieces preserve structure and airflow.
- Dry leaves, small twigs, and plant stalks
- Shredded brown paper bags
- Shredded non-glossy, uncolored paper
- Shredded cardboard with tape, labels, and coatings removed
- Untreated wood chips or sawdust in modest amounts
Greens: nitrogen-rich
Greens supply nitrogen and help microorganisms keep decomposition moving.
- Fruit and vegetable scraps
- Coffee grounds and paper filters
- Paper tea bags with staples removed
- Crushed eggshells
- Untreated grass clippings in thin layers
- Fresh, healthy plant trimmings
- Meat, fish, and bones: odors can attract animals, and backyard piles may not destroy pathogens.
- Dairy, fats, grease, and oils: they break down slowly, create odors, and can exclude air.
- Dog or cat waste and cat litter: they can carry pathogens that a home pile may not eliminate.
- Diseased or pest-infested plants: uneven heating may let the problem survive.
- Mature weed seeds or persistent invasive roots: they may remain viable and spread with the compost.
- Herbicide-treated vegetation: residues can persist and injure plants where the compost is used.
- Treated or painted wood: coatings and preservatives do not belong in garden compost.
- Glossy or coated paper: coatings and inks may not break down cleanly.
- Produce stickers: remove them because they are usually plastic and remain in finished compost.
- Dryer lint: modern lint may contain persistent synthetic fibers.
- “Compostable” packaging: use a home pile only when the product specifically says it is home-compostable; many items require an industrial facility.
1. Choose a practical location
Pick a level, well-drained place with convenient access, nearby water, and room to mix the pile. Sun or partial shade can work.
2. Build an airy base
Begin with roughly 4–6 inches of coarse browns such as small twigs or chunky leaves. The loose base helps air enter and excess water drain.
3. Add browns and greens in balance
Add greens in thin layers and cover food scraps with 4–8 inches of browns. Keeping a bag of dry leaves or shredded cardboard beside the pile makes this easier.
4. Check moisture by hand
Squeeze a handful from the middle. It should feel evenly damp, with little or no water dripping. Add water if it is dusty; add dry browns and mix if it is soggy.
5. Keep air moving
Turn or mix the pile periodically with a fork or aerator, especially when it compacts, cools despite fresh material, or develops an unpleasant odor. There is no need to chase a perfect schedule.
6. Let the pile finish
Stop adding fresh material to a batch when you want it to finish. A regularly managed pile may become ready in about 3–5 months; a mostly unattended pile may take a year or more.
7. Cure before using
When the pile no longer heats after mixing and most original ingredients are unrecognizable, let it cure for at least four weeks. Finished compost should be dark, loose, crumbly, and earthy-smelling.
Troubleshoot the pile
- It smells rotten
- It is often too wet or short on air. Mix in dry browns and turn the pile.
- It is dry and unchanged
- Add water gradually while mixing. Aim for the wrung-sponge feel throughout, not just on top.
- It is wet and soggy
- Mix in dry browns, turn the pile to restore air, and protect it from excess rain while keeping drainage open.
- Food scraps attract pests
- Bury scraps in the center and cover them with 4–8 inches of browns. Remove any meat, dairy, or oily food.
- It is damp but not active
- Add a modest layer of greens, mix, and make sure the pile is large enough to retain some warmth.
Use finished compost
Work 2–4 inches into the top 6–9 inches of garden soil before planting, or spread a thinner layer on the surface. Keep surface-applied compost a little away from plant stems.
- Improve vegetable, flower, and raised beds.
- Use a suitable proportion in container mixes rather than planting in pure compost.
- Top-dress lawns or landscaped areas with a light, even layer.
- Spread around trees and shrubs without piling it against trunks.
Compost needs balance — not perfection.
- Smelly? Add browns and air.
- Dry? Add water.
- Inactive but moist? Add greens and turn it.
- Soggy? Add dry browns and turn it.